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Eight Hundred and Eighty Eight Hours

By Bryan Gillmore

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Hurry up and wait. I think we might have set a record in our travels to Patagonia. From Denver International Airport it was a short 25 hours before we sat down and enjoyed our first Hamberguesa of the trip at El Rancho Grande. Three and a half weeks later, our speed record was our only achievement, period.

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The Roaring 40’s

By Sam Lightner

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Josh Gross and I had big plans this past season in Patagonia. Fitzroy, Poincenot, and maybe Cerro Standhardt… whatever we could put together in a month. But, the Gods had other ideas…

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The Ruth Expedition: Field Updates

By The Ruth Expedition

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Washington Natives Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman embarked on a four-week expedition to the Central Alaska Range, establishing a new routes on Mt. Bradley. Here are their field reports and videos.

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To the South Col

By Chad Kellogg

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May 11th
I am back in Deboche again taking some rest days. The past week has been very eventful. I arrived in Base Camp on May 3rd with another round of acclimatization necessary before getting set for a summit bid. The forecast was for high winds and a large dump of snow. In Base Camp, I [...]

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Launching into the Unknown

By Blake Herrington

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Mossy chimneys, phenomenal crack, a descent under darkness, and the satisfaction of the last candy bar. Blake Herrington and Rad Roberts launch into the unknown of the Cascades, sending a new route on Sloan Peak.

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Aconcagua to Everest, pt.2

By Chad Kellogg

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This spring, Chad Kellogg is planning to set a new speed record on Everest. Training recently took him to Aconcagua to set a new route on the South Face and attempt a one day ascent of the standard route. Helping his ill partner be evacuated, dodging hourly serac avalanches, and soloing nearly 10,000′ in mixed conditions are only parts of the story. Here is Chad’s recount of three summit attempts.

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Aconcagua to Everest, pt.1

By Chad Kellogg

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This spring, Chad Kellogg is attempting to set a new speed record on Everest. Training recently took him to Aconcagua. Helping his ill partner be evacuated, dodging hourly serac avalanches, and soloing nearly 10,000′ in mixed conditions are only parts of the story. Here is Chad’s recount of three summit attempts.

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Beyond the Aahhh’s

By Mike Hattrup

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Mike Hattrup finds his first rock climb, alpine ascent, and ski mountaineering objective can all be seen from one hotel room in Verbier….very near his first ski descent in Chamonix for the Blizzard of Aahhh’s.

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Mountain Climbing New Zealand Style

By Jason Wheeler

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In New Zealand on the East Coast of the North Island, I was keen to find a challenge. I decided on two of the highest volcanoes with a plan to do both in the same day. I love it when a plan comes together, shame this one didn’t.

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The Making of an AMGA Guide

By Martin Volken

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This glimpse into the rigors guides go through to become certified by the AMGA makes it incredibly apparent how skilled and talented they are. Martin Volken – IFMGA guide, instructor/examiner for the AMGA ski mountaineering program, and owner of ProGuiding Service based in North Bend, WA – shot this video during a recent AMGA Alpine Exam in the North Cascades.

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