Stage 1 - A Moment of Shade By Kevin Arnold

The energy was high as all the runners packed into the corral for the start of the Transrockies Run.  I was very nervous not knowing where we would fit into the mix of those around us.  Chad remained calm and excited to explore everything that the course had to offer.  With not a cloud to be spotted in the sky, we knew that the 20.6 mile route through high desert would be hot.  Going into the day of running we were naive to the conditions we would face along with the terrain.  We found ourselves running on converted railbed, sandy moto trails, tight single track and dirt road, all of which were really exposed to the sun.

The gun sounded and the pace was solid from the start; in retrospect we started the day at a blistering pace.  After reaching the top of the first climb we worked to find a pace that was obtainable for the conditions and the course.  We were getting passed by other teams and this was frustrating to me.  I had to remain calm and patient and understand that due to the elevation I wouldn’t be able to run at the same pace/intensity that I do at sea level.  As the miles ticked away I found myself struggling to find my stride and to settle in.  Chad remained solid and confident as we continued to work together.  As we got closer to the finish we were very exposed on open dirt road.  We could see what we thought was the finish so pushed, although within a few minutes, we realized that we had sighted a bridge and not the finish area. Mentally I was shot, my Vermont skin was sunburned, and my spirits and energy fading.  Looking ahead Chad spotted the team of Krissy Moehl and Bryon Dayton in front of us.  This was reassuring that we were hanging in there as they are both phenomenal runners.  As we increased our intensity they responded and continued to maintain their lead, without warning Krissy pulled over and we took the opportunity to pass and to our surprise we finished the day in 2nd place for the Mixed Open division.

After congratulating those competitors around us we darted down to the creek to soak our legs and begin the recovery process.

“I HOPE THIS PASSES”
Stage 2: Vicksburg To Twin Lakes Dam (Hope Pass)
Stats:  13.5 miles/3,617 ft climbing

Stage 2 - Top of Hope Pass

After our first night of camping we woke up to cooler temperatures and partially cloudy skies.  The news of possible severe weather excited Chad and me as we see nasty conditions as an advantage for us.  Due to the variable conditions we were required to carry mandatory gear which included our OR Helium jackets, Exos hats, Flurry Mitts, 1st aid kits, and emergency blankets.  Once again the energy was intense in the start area and when the music stopped and the gun sounded the leaders set a fast pace as we headed up a dirt road for approximately two miles before starting the 3 mile climb up Hope Pass.

Chad and I had planned to speed hike the trail and run little segments as our energy levels permitted.  Since Chad had a longer stride and is a faster/stronger hiker we set up a tow line off the back of his hydration pack which I could easily access and clip to the front of my pack.  We quickly warmed up and found a pace that was “comfortable”.  We noted that we falling behind our competitors as we could keep track of them on the switch backs that had yet to come for us.  We both reassured each other that we could make up ground on the downhill as we are both comfortable with descending technical terrain.  At the top of the pass I unclipped the tow, hopped in front of Chad and took a quick look around to take in the astonishing views.  We had completed the 3,500 ft climb up above tree line to the summit and we were ready to rock the downhill, but suddenly I found myself very lightheaded.  We had planned on me running in front on the down hills and I warned Chad that I had to ease back on the pace to try and regain my equilibrium.  As we worked our way down the rocky switch backs my speed and confidence increased.  We dropped back into the woods and I felt like we were running down the Long Trail in Vermont.  Still no teams in sight, but we continued to push the pace as much as we could.  As we reached the bottom of the pass we caught a glimpse of Twin Lakes and knew that we had three miles to the finish.

As our feet struck flat and uphill terrain it felt like we had concrete pillars for legs.  The skies had now cleared and the sun was back out in full force.  We continued to traverse our way around the lake and then realized that we were about a minute back from Chris Purslow and Brian Tinder.  Since we were running on single track I knew we could quietly make up ground on them without them realizing it.  We slowly hunted them down and took them by surprise as we passed them about a mile from the finish.  After passing them we increased our pace and popped out on a gravel dirt road.  We had a small climb up the road before making a sweeping left hand turn downhill to the finish.  Chad and I both opened up our stride eager to secure our 4th place finish for the day.

“24 MILES AT 10,000 FEET”
Stage 3: Leadville to Camp Hale
Stats: 24.3 miles/2,930 ft climbing

Stage 3 - Warm Up

Before we knew it or before we were willing to accept reality, the starting gun fired setting us off down Leadville’s historic Main Street.  We headed towards Cooper and the Colorado Trail where we were treated to buffed-out single track, alpine meadows and of course climbing.

The leaders set a strong pace as we headed up a slight paved incline before being treated to a mile of downhill on a quiet open road.  Once bending off the road we found somewhat shaded paths and 4WD track.  We found our groove and caught up to Chris and Brian and we all chatted as we ticked off the miles.  After hitting check point 2, I received a major gift from the course Gods.  Today we did some climbing, but even more so, we did some descending.  With a total elevation gain of 2,767 ft and a total elevation lose of 3,662 ft I could relax and enjoy.  I really enjoy downhill running whether it is buffed-out or technical terrain.  As we started to descend to a finishing elevation of 9,203 ft we began putting a gap between us and Chris and Brian.

After we turned off the single track trail we hit an exposed dirt road that would bring us all the way to Nova Guides where the finish was.  I found myself eager to be finished so opened up my stride and increased my turnover rate.  I guess I have a habit of pushing the end because Chad compared me to an animal headed to the barn at feeding time.  I couldn’t be distracted as I only had one thing on my mind and that was to finish.  We sprinted across the finish line in a time of 3:47:29 which put us back up on the podium with a third place victory for the stage.

“WE PROMISE NEVER AGAIN”
Stage 4: Camp Hale To Red Cliff
Stats: 13.4 Miles/3,009 ft climbing

Stage 4 - Start Line, By Kevin Arnold

Having three days under our belt, our energy on the morning of day four had decreased.  We awoke in the morning to find ice on our tent and temperatures in the low 30’s.  We both struggled to motivate putting on our running shorts and short sleeve tops, although we knew the game continued.  The night before we had studied the map and heard returning runners relive the agony of the short but steep stage.  The climb was going to be steep and without switch backs.  To help assist with our climb Chad gladly traded one of his stage prizes for the usage of a pair of poles.  In the starting chute I was nervous and chilled to the bone.  I didn’t want to layer knowing that after the two mile gravel road we would go directly into the climb up what our map had labeled “Resolution Hill”.  We started to run up the climb but it quickly became too steep to run efficiently.  The fun began and up we went as I clipped the tow line to my pack.  Chad made good use of the poles, but either way the climb hurt.  Again on this stage we hoped to keep a consistent but modest pace on the uphill so not to overextend ourselves and then try to make up time on the downhill.  We emerged out of the trees on top of Hornsilver Mountain and were treated to views of Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive and Mt. Holy Cross.  We worked our way across the ridge and down the single track.  Eventually we came to several creek crossings which we had planned to plow right through.  The first crossings were brief enough that I was fine.  Eventually we came to a section where we had to run a half of mile in the stream and the cold water settled in my shoes.  I slowed and Chad passed me and I felt like I was going to vomit.  As we hit dry ground again I sounded like a Clydesdale and Chad asked me what was wrong. What was wrong was the fact that I couldn’t feel my feet which made running difficult.

I wasn’t too worried as I thought we were running in 3rd place with just over a mile of downhill left.  We increased our pace and were running under six minute miles as we crossed the finish line.  As I congratulated Chad I looked up and noticed three teams in our division and I was disappointed in myself.  We had finished in a solid time, but I had felt like I had let myself and Chad down.

“UPS & DOWNS”
Stage 5: Red Cliff To Vail
Stats: 22.8 (okay lets be honest it was 23.98 miles)/5,500 ft climbing

Chad and I woke up and chatted about how hard it was becoming to get out of the tent even though the sleeping wasn’t uncomfortable.  Another challenging day of running awaited us and our muscles were starting to feel like they were ready for a rest day.  The temperatures were again sub-40 so I opted to start in arm warmers and mittens.  Our goal today was to keep our competitors in sight during the 10 mile climb up Shrine Pass.  We quickly lost sight of the Canadian duo of Mark Nelson and Care Wakely, but had Bryon and Krissy in sight as we climbed the dirt road.  As the course veered off the dirt road and onto single track Chad and I were in front of Krissy and Bryon but we allowed them to pass.  I was struggling; my stomach wasn’t cooperating and every time I ate I got sharp pains in my abdomen.  I continued to do what I could so we wouldn’t lose too much time.  We would run and then walk and then run some more.

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• Scouting the creek crossing prior to the race

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• Scouting prior to the race

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• Stage 1 - A Moment of Shade By Kevin Arnold

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• Stage 1 Podium - 2nd Place

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• Stage 2 - Top of Hope Pass

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• Stage 2 - Single Track

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• Stage 2-Clearing Skies

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• Stage 2 - Tent City in Leadville

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• Stage 3 - Warm Up

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• Stage 3 - Single Track

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• Stage 4 - Start Line, By Kevin Arnold

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• Stage 4 - Single Track

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• Stage 5 Podium - 3rd Place

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• FINISHED!

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• Finish - Luggage

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• After Thoughts - Product Testing

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As we began to plateau everything for me began to crumble and become painful.  Chad was running in front of me and I threw up.  I dropped to all fours while grabbing my stomach and threw up again.  Chad finally stopped and looked at me and started walking back towards me.  He admittedly didn’t know what to do nor did I.  I think telepathically we both knew the options which were to get up and walk or to get up and run.  We were in the middle of no man’s land with nothing and no one around.  I got up while complaining about my frustration and pain.  As we walked around the next corner, Chad spotted a camera man and told me I should at least run till we passed him, I agreed and we took off running.  As we continued to press on we noticed that we weren’t far behind Chris and Brian and this proved as motivation for both Chad and I.  My stomach was empty and painful, but I tried to eat one shot block at a time.  That plan back fired as it came back up faster then it went down.  I kept running while focusing on not losing ground on the team in front of us.  As we finally made it to the top of Vail Pass we pulled into the aid station to restock on GU, electrolytes and water.  Now for the fun part, 3,000 ft of downhill running on service dirt roads and single track.  Despite not feeling well, I was in heaven.  I opened up my stride and took off eager to catch Chris and Brian.  About 2 miles into the decent Chad and I had them in our sights and overtook them.  We continued to push the pace and as the miles ticked away I got more and more eager to be done.  A few miles from the finish I attempted to eat a GU and thought it was going to stay put but without warning projectile vomited while running.  As disgusting as it was, all I could do was laugh.

Chad and I crossed the finish line and were pleased with our 3rd place finish given the trying times that we had encountered during the stage.

“THE FINAL FINISH”
Stage 6: Vail To Beaver Creek
Stats: 20.6 miles / 4,780 ft climbing

Stage 5 Podium - 3rd Place

After a rough night of interrupted sleep Chad and I were only motivated by the fact that the day meant the final day of running.  I had been telling myself just 16 miles of running and I was going to be done, but then my bubble burst when I was informed that it was 21 miles of running with significant climbs.  I could do it, we could do it, and I told myself that each step we took we would be that much closer to the finish and returning home to our families.  Knowing that I was struggling mentally and with stomach issues Chad suggested that I wear my ipod to help me zone out and I agreed.  We started the final leg of the race in the village of Vail and were paced out of town by mountain bikers until we reached the single track that marked the start of our first significant climb of the day.  Once again, the skies were clear and the sun was intense and we worked to not fall far behind the three teams that surged in front of us. Every so often I would take my headphones off to check in with Chad to see how he was feeling.  For the first 10 miles my stomach was touch and go as I felt like I could only push as hard as it would allow me to and luckily Chad was feeling strong.  After running 12 plus miles on road, buffed out single track and double track we were treated some tighter, more technical single track which excited me. At this point Chad requested that I ditch the tunes as he felt like we run better when I could communicate more consistently and I agreed as we continued downhill.  Like usual my speed increased until I finally almost went flying head first down the hill.  Knowing my tendencies, Chad reined me in.  Eventually Chad and I caught Chris and Brian and, after exchanging encouraging words, we pressed on down the trail.  About 1.5 miles later the single track abruptly ended and we found ourselves descending down a pavement hill into the center of Avon.  As we flew through intersections, over roundabouts and tunnels again, without notice, I threw up and could only imagine what motorists/pedestrians must have thought.  Chad and I both knew just four miles left, but still a killer climb to come, so I clipped the tow rope on.  As we arrived at the final aid station I grabbed a few GU’s and decided not to fill my hydration pack.  We were maintaining our small lead over Chris and Brian, but they were within sight.  They were so close that Brian continued to wave to us as we made our way up the switch backs.  As we worked our way up we both began to feel the heat.  Chad made the call when to walk and when to run.  We both knew that we had to run more sections then our bodies really wanted to.  We pushed and I went to take a sip of water and discovered I was out.  We leveled out and I unclipped and took the lead as we started to go down.  Within two minutes we both realized that in actuality we were not done climbing.  We could now see the top but still had several sweeping switchbacks to climb before plummeting to the finish.  I lead the way and just before cresting the final section, took a sip of Chad’s water. Down we went on dirt road, then single track and then more dirt road.  We could hear the cowbell of the women who hiked up a mile everyday to cheer runners in and then we could hear the announcer at the finish.  I peered over my shoulder to see if we needed to sprint the finish but there was nothing behind us but open road.  We crossed the finish line in 3rd place for the stage and secured a 3rd place finish for the week.

“After Thoughts”

Product Testing

It was a new experience camping with hundreds of other athletes, although I blended right in with my outdoor wardrobe consisting of all my favorite OR clothing, recovery socks and compression sleeves.  Also no one laughed at my crazy tan lines or my ability to eat more food than a horse.  We even got to do some product testing in the Gore-Tex truck.  It was so hot outside that I was tempted to just go into the rainy/windy enclosed environment without any Gore-Tex but I was amazed that I emerged from the truck without a single wet spot on my clothes underneath the jacket and pants.

It was obvious from the moment that we started living in “tent city” that there was a lack of personal space.  We lived together in a small tent for 6 days.  To give you an idea the tent was so small that Chad was too tall for it lying down.  To help alleviate this problem we slept with the door open and this also aided in not having to hear our tent zipper every few hours for bathroom breaks (PCPO – “Pee Clear, Pee Often). Throughout the week Chad and I received numerous comments on how well we worked together during the stages.  As many teams struggled to find their compatibility, Chad and I communicated constantly so to manage things before they escalated.  We are still speaking and this is an added bonus.

We are now both back in New England enjoying the air and catching up on life.  My most present thoughts are that I am tired, very tired.  I am not sore; I do not have blisters or scrapes and cuts but I just don’t have a jump in my step.  The nature of the race we completed didn’t allow our bodies enough time for soreness to set in or for us to fully recover.  After we finished each stage I asked if we could just do all the mileage at once, a one shot deal.  Motivating day after day to will ourselves to the start line and then to the finish line became daunting yet exciting at the same time.  To see Colorado through human powered adventure was amazing and I look forward to seeing what else awaits me in the great outdoors.

We’ll be getting updates once they’ve completed this incredible race, so check back for more from Aliza and Chad. And good luck to the team!

Chad Keeping Warm

What is it about the long distance trail running that keeps you going back for more? What’s the driver?

The allure of long distance running is that it can test the limitations of both your mind and body. Exploring Mother Nature on foot can feel very empowering and running helps keep us in tune with ourselves. In all honesty running is rather addicting and has become a part of everyday life. While running for hours on end we experience highs and lows and everything in between. We always try to remember that like the high movements the darker times will pass too.

Testing our minds and bodies to see how far and how fast we can go keeps us motivated to continue training. You never know what you are capable of until you try. It also allows a time for reflecting on life in general. Its amazing how many complicated things can become so obvious and clear when you are on a good run.

What exactly is the TR?

The Transrockies Race is an amazing stage event involving over 140 miles and 6 segmented days of trail running. The race itself starts in Buena Vista, CO follows the Colorado Trail when it permits and eventually finishes in Beaver Creek, CO on Friday, August 27th. This type of race is very common over in Europe but has been slow to become a popular type of event in the US. The Transrockies event is the first real stage trail running event on American soil and it just happens to be across one of the most spectacular stretches of the rocky mountain region of Colorado. The Transrockies race goes above and beyond to ensure that this will indeed be a life changing experience. They make sure that athletes are treated to a very high class, well supported event supplying daily meals, setting up and taking down all sleeping arrangements (tents) daily. There is no other experience like it!

Transrockies

What is your goal for TR?

We have several goals for Transrockies ranging from pushing our limits along with the teams around us to sharing our passion and knowledge of trail running with others. This race provides an amazing opportunity to see Colorado through human powered adventure.

How did you connect with teammate Chad Denning?

Chad Denning and I met in 2004 while running the Vermont 50 endurance race. After that we continued to recognize one another at races and found that racing together was beneficial to both of us as we realized that when one of us was experiencing a low the other was usually hitting their stride.

Do you and Chad follow a certain rules or have a particular strategy? How is this event different from ones you’ve done before?

Over the years Chad and I haven’t had the best track record together in terms of listening to our bodies. Between the two of us and our adventures together we have had a broken femur, kidney failure, giardia, and of course we have also had a lot of smiles and happiness.

Because we have very different strengths and weaknesses we have been working to sync up our styles. When we do hit our stride together everything feels so effortless, although on the other hand when we are not aligned it feels like we are fighting ourselves and wasting energy.

Since TR is a partner race and we have to stay together it will be different than any race we have done together before. In the past during races we have both been comfortable leaving the other if necessary and in this race that is not an option. For the two of us communication, pacing and recovery will be key.

Chillin'

You mentioned some fear before the VT100. How do you get past this when setting out to reach a new goal or compete in a new event?

The idea that we will not be running as individuals, but rather as a team does provoke some anxiety within. In regular ultras we are solely responsible of our outcome. In Transrockies as individuals we don’t have as much control as it is shared between the two of us. In order to accomplish our individual and team goals we will have to depend on each other from start to finish. Fear and anxiety will continue to be present for me but reminding myself of the positive reasons I run helps me proceed. Once we toe the line my hours of worry disappear and something takes over.

Gregg Treinish and Deia Schlosberg are embarking on an expedition to understand wildlife connectivity and the relationships between people and nature in the Northern Rockies of the United States. Open migration and dispersal routes are essential for the survival of grizzly bears, wolverines, wolves, moose, mountain lion, lynx, and so many other species that need the ability to wander. With increasing human development, wildlife habitat in this area is becoming extremely fragmented, and populations are at a much greater risk of extinction.

Beginning in July of 2010, they will trek ~450 miles by foot over two months to gain a point of view of the wildlife and the locals along the way, gathering data and knowledge of conditions and threats to the animals to help ensure the unimpeded movement between Yellowstone National Park and the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness area.

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DISPATCH 9: 8/8/10

Connecting the Gems is complete! Gregg and Deia have completed their epic 500 mile trek, finishing in almost one month exactly! The pair have exited the Frank Church Wilderness, just in time for the Harmonica Festival in Yellow Pine. Now if they can only get a ride into town…

Watch as they take their final steps of this awesome adventure: MVI_3121-desktop, MVI_3336-desktop, MVI_3581-desktop

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DISPATCH 8: 8/2/10

The Frank Church Wilderness – a.k.a. the Frank Church River of No Return – is within sight! But the Harmonica Festival in Yellow Pine, ID still seems awfully far off. Check in with Gregg and Deia as they narrow in on the home stretch!

Check out some footage from this update:MVI_2907-desktop, MVI_2994-desktop

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DISPATCH 7: 7/28/10

The Continental Divide Trail comes as a relief to Gregg and Deia, who can bask in easy navigating and company on the trail. Up next, though, is the Lenheigh Range, which remains a much bigger mystery.

Audio Update July 28

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_2213, MVI_2339

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DISPATCH 6: 7/21/10

No pings? No worries – the team is sitting safely on top of the Snow Crest Range.  The team is still in hot “pursuit” of bears as they continue west a head of schedule.

Audio Update July 21

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_2138, MVI_2146

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DISPATCH 5: 7/20/10

A good cure for two 20+ days? How about sitting on top of the Gravelly mountains surrounded by endless flowers and spectacular views. Gregg describes the scene as he gives us an update on the team’s status.

Audio Update July 20

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_1407, MVI_1980

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DISPATCH 4: 7/16/10

Leaving the Gallatin Mountains behind, Gregg and Deia have now entered Lee Metcalf Wilderness. And, of course, there is no greater welcome than a rough bushwack in pursuit of a new trail! Deia provides an update.

Audio Update July 16

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_1281, MVI_1816

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DISPATCH 3: 7/14/10

The Duo has arrived in at their camp on the Big Horn Creek Trail, with the Gallatin Range up coming over the next couple of days.  Spirits are looking up as coyotes and wolves howl in the distance!

Audio Update July 14

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_1286, MVI_1309

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DISPATCH 2: 7/10/10

Heinous hiking.  Late nights.  Lost trails. Swarming mosquitoes. At least it is beautiful!  Gregg gives us the first audio update from the trip.

Audio Update July 10

Check out some footage from this update: MVI_1434-desktop, MVI_1361-desktop

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DISPATCH 1: 7/7/10 from Deia

This afternoon we take off for the trail.  It’s been hard to pull ourselves away from our wonderful friends in Bozeman, but we keep having to remind ourselves that it’s only six weeks this time.  The last time we were preparing for a big hike, we were guessing a year but really leaving for two.  I keep flashing back to those feelings and getting overwhelmed, but when I remember that this one is different, I find myself getting excited about it–excited to be doing a project wherein the walking has a specific purpose beyond my own learning and experience.  I’m hopeful that by doing this we can provide data that will lead to a much more complete picture of animal movement patterns and problems between Yellowstone and the Frank Church, and hopefully some solutions will emerge out of that.

We’ve spent the last five days finalizing logistics, packing, putting together resupply boxes and making sure our ducks are lined up.  The idea of having people come meet us on our route with resupplies is amazing–the whole project will be streamlined, and we’ll be able to focus on the hike and the film much more.  I’m fairly floored that so many people have volunteered their time to help us with the project–the support has been incredible and we are totally thankful.

The route itself should be gorgeous.  We’re really excited to get to know our own part of the country in way more depth.  Even after hiking just the whole Bridger ridge last summer, I feel much more connected to those mountains every time I look at them or spend time in them.  Like I know them more and have an understanding of them–the animals that reside there, the geologic history and the water that trickles down from their snow melt each spring.  So to have a similar KNOWING of the entire transect across the whole Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and into the Frank Church is a very special prospect.  I’m hopeful that our documentation will do it justice and remind people that these areas are worthy of our awareness and that extra step toward understanding.  After all, we cannot appreciate that which we cannot understand.

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Check back to this post to follow Gregg and Deia’s progress on VertiCulture.  More details can be found here and on their site at www.connectingthegems.org.

This video of Wildlife Corridor of the Month: Centennial/Beaverhead was produced by Danny Schmidt.

The Northern Rockies of the United States are one of the most important and intact ecosystems found today in the world’s temperate zone. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness in central Idaho are large, important landscapes that still fit the descriptions of Lewis and Clark, who came through the area more than 200 years ago. Rich wildlife populations and vast areas of untouched wilderness still reign here. Unfortunately, these areas are increasingly at risk of becoming isolated islands of disjunct habitat.

When populations of animals exist in isolation, they are left without the ability to maintain genetic diversity. Gene flow across populations is crucial if animals are going to survive in the face of a changing climate and a rapidly expanding human population. It is essential to the survival of grizzly bears, wolverines, wolves, moose, mountain lion, lynx, and so many other species that need the ability to wander, that clear and safe migration and dispersal routes remain permeable long into the future. It is believed that the best chance for the preservation of a viable carnivore community in North America is in this area, and indeed it may be the last place in the lower 48 states where this is possible. With increasing human development, wildlife habitat in this area is becoming extremely fragmented, and the populations it sustains are therefore at a much greater risk of extinction.

Connecting the Gems

During the summer of 2010, we will team up with the Greater Yellowstone Coalition (GYC), the Craighead Environmental Research Institute (CERI), and the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), to help ensure the unimpeded movement between Yellowstone National Park and the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness area. By traveling through the region on foot, from the point of view of the wildlife, we hope to gain a unique understanding of the conditions and threats to key habitats, presence of various species, current management practices, and perspectives of the local people. We will be collecting data about the choices that moving animals are forced to make and the hazards they face, while we trek through some of the most remote and rugged mountains in the lower 48 states. By documenting specific instances of fragmentation, GYC, CERI, WCS, and other agencies working to promote and protect these areas, will have the information they need to ensure that future generations have the ability to experience these charismatic megafauna, which we are lucky enough to share our wild spaces with today. We expect that the trek will be about 450 miles in length and take about two months to complete. We will be following the most likely routes that wolverines and grizzly bears would take through the area, and are bound to encounter several wildlife species along the way. You can follow our progress here on VertiCulture as well as at www.connectingthegems.org

The long trail ahead. PCT

There is a game you can play as you walk around the city: Following a repeating sequence of turns, i.e. Left-Left-Right-Left, you will end up places you have never seen before, even if you’ve lived in that same city ten years.  We choose certain routes based upon instinct and habit; this game’s purpose is to override them.

Thru-hiking is similar.  The trails are at once wild and urbane.  The land they’re built on has been repurposed by humans time and time again, from orchards and farms, to mining camps, wind farms, and cities, all of which make up a large portion of the scenery of your hike.  Yet on the Pacific Crest Trail, the rivers of snow melt that run off Glacier Peak continuously knock down the bridges that are built across them.  And as I made my way to the Big Lake Youth camp, on the PCT in Oregon, for a hamburger and fries, a mountain lion watched me from a cliff above the trail.

Thru-hikers, like other adventurers, need no encouragement to get outside and explore.  But thru-hikers, unlike other adventurers, choose to do so in a very restrictive way.  The parameters are set, to become a thru-hiker you must walk every inch of a trail in one calendar year.  You must follow it everyplace, through backyards, battlefields, zoos, highways, clear-cuts, deserts, forest fires, and mountain passes.

UltraBrite on the PCT

Obviously a man-made trail is most often the path of least resistance through the woods, so to follow the trail appears an easy choice.  The trail, blasted into the cliff face (Eagle Creek blue blaze on PCT) or sturdy with rock stairs down a rocky slope (Golden Staircase, John Muir Trail) is, again, the safe choice.  But sometimes, the official trail is not the shortest route (Tejon Ranch, anyone?), nor is this or that trail town a place we’d choose to stop in (none need be named here).  Yet, married to the trail as thru-hikers, we choose the man-made option.  What keeps us on the staircases instead of in the waterfall?  What draws us to sleep in the campgrounds with the fire pits and the bear lockers instead of the caves, the mine shafts, or the flat rocks on riverbeds?  Is it fear?  Is it convenience?  Are we still an explorer if we’re hiking on a trail?

PCT Family

I think psychogeography gives some insight into the mind of a thru-hiker.  By setting limitations we force ourselves to go places we would otherwise avoid. By walking “inside the box” we show ourselves something new and give ourselves the opportunity to react spontaneously to it.  Not once or twice, but for four, five, and six months straight.  We restrict our latitude in order to experience more deeply the longitude.

Thru-hiking introduces you to your free self in an environment right at the edge of civilization.  It’s a controlled experiment in exploring the possibilities that exist for you in a world where everything you need is on your back and you are free. There is convenience, there is fear, and there are satisfying points where you overcome both.

Mail drop

In the year 2000, I had thirty boxes of trail food packed and waiting to be shipped from Poulsbo, WA to post offices along the Appalachian Trail.  I’d just received the first at Neel’s Gap when I decided I’d rather be somewhere else.

Five years later I found my way back to Springer Mountain and completed a successful thru-hike of the AT.  I followed it up with a thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail in 2007.   Sometimes the best preparation is failure.  But it’s not for everyone, so to cut down on prep time, before I do anything else, I ask myself this:

Is there anywhere else I’d rather be?

Would I rather be going to school or moving forward in a career?  Would I rather be near to my significant other or traveling abroad?

Warner Springs

The answer so far has been “No.” Which meant I was going on a walk. H.D. Thoreau cast it in a slightly more dramatic light when he wrote,

“If you are ready to leave father and mother and brother and sister and wife and child and friends, and never see them again,–if you have paid your debts, and made your will, and settled all your affairs, and are a free man, then you are ready for a walk.”

I don’t think he meant to sever all ties to society, but instead to “whip” them before you can go.  Hiking the AT or the PCT hardly means removing yourself from society:  My forty-mile achievement on the AT in 2000 was due in part to the shock of camping with 31 people my first night on the trail at Hawk Mountain Shelter.

Water Cache

And far from the expectation that you will be self-sufficient, with all your worldly possessions on your back, you might, as I did, come to recognize just how reliant you are on the commodities of the everyday world: The day hikers who give up their extra food to get you by another day without going into town; the man who stops to give you a ride while he is driving himself to the hospital, shifting the gears of the truck with his broken wrist; the weekend RV campers who let you tent in their site for free; and the family who treks a cooler of water bottles out into the desert for you.  Some may view your conversion to their religion a fair repayment for their kind deeds.  Still, no motive can negate these great acts of selflessness.  I surprised myself by becoming accustomed to this kindness and beginning to take it for granted.

Without the means to reciprocate, after about three months of this generosity, I started to feel guilty, enough to almost derail my hike.  Therefore, the second part of preparing for a thru-hike should be to find a philosophy that tackles this issue of entitlement.

Ultrabrite getting some shade at Fuller Ridge

Those dropping out of the work-a-day life to pursue a life outdoors will find redemption (maybe a little too much so) in the writing of Steven Graham, an Englishman who walked to Jerusalem with Russian pilgrims:

“[One] wishes to find the few who, in this fearful commercial submersion, ought to be living the spiritual life, and showing forth in blossom the highest significance of the Adam tree.  He himself lives the life which more must of necessity live, if only as a matter of salt to save the body politic.”

Or, if you don’t quite think of yourself as the exemplar of anti-consumerism, then Graham has another possible excuse.  He found that the dangers of sleeping in unknown places outdoors each night (or smoothing out his bracken bed as he put it) made him feel vulnerable, and therefore, more humble before a God who would “deliver him from Evil.”

In preparation, first ask yourself if a thru-hike is the only thing in the whole world you want to be doing.  If it is then buy a good pair of shoes… but more importantly buy into a good excuse as to why you deserve to do it, a good one will last you five months and through the many pairs of shoes you’ll buy.

With a 2-year, interim plan in place, the National Park Service wants your opinion on a permanent plan for winter usage of Yellowstone National Park. Please use the links below to have your voice heard. Here is a letter from Winter Wildlands Alliance with the details:

Dear Winter Wildlands Alliance Supporters,

It’s been a long haul (the word interminable comes to mind) but the finish line for a cleaner, quieter, healthier Yellowstone truly is in sight. After 12 years, $10 million in taxpayer money and nearly a million public comments, the Yellowstone winter use plan certainly qualifies as an ultra endurance ultra long-distance event.

With a two-year interim plan in place, the National Park Service is now soliciting public input for the long-term management of winter use in our first national park. Over the next two years, the Park Service will consider how best to provide public access in winter while protecting Yellowstone’s wildlife, air quality, and natural soundscapes. Finally, after more than a decade of struggle, this environmental study will set in place a permanent plan for winter use.

With your help, we’ve made enormous progress in providing the best possible protection for Yellowstone over the past decade. We’ve eliminated the noisiest and most-polluting forms of winter access and moderated the disruption to wintering wildlife. Thanks to your involvement and support, we’re getting somewhere! Every living former director of the National Park Service has agreed with you that snowmobiles should be phased out of Yellowstone; the EPA and a Federal Court have agreed with you that the Park Service has not applied its best available, sound science and adopted visitation that best protects Yellowstone. The Park has indeed become healthier as snowmobile numbers have been reduced and visitors have turned increasingly to entering the Park under their own power or on more environmentally-friendly snowcoaches.

Now, we have a final opportunity to urge Yellowstone to adopt a permanent plan for winter access that protects the Park and at the same time improves the visitor experience. Please help us complete the transition to a healthier, cleaner, and quieter Yellowstone.

You can take two steps right now to further improve the winter experience in Yellowstone:

1) Submit written comments.

2) Attend a National Park Service openhouse (6:30 – 8:30 pm):

Feb. 16 in Idaho Falls (Hilton Garden Inn, 700 Lindsay Blvd.)

Feb. 18 in Billings (Hilton Garden Inn, 2465 Grant Road)

March 15 in Cheyenne (Little America, 2800 West Lincolnway)

March 17 in Washington, D.C. (Old Post Office Pavilion, 1100 Pennsylvania Ave NW)

Deadline for comments is March 30, 2010.
Click here for a sample letter and talking points.

To submit comments click http://parkplanning.nps.gov/yell, select Yellowstone National Park, and follow the link for the winter use plan.

Taranaki

Having just finished reading Christian’s post on Bozeman I was happy to see that someone beat me to writing that story. I was there with everyone else and I think Christian put it very well.

Having left Bozeman, I headed back to Canmore, then Vancouver on my way to Quebec for some more ice over the Christmas period. I managed to get out on Christmas day and warm up on a fun route called Petite Eiger just near Montreal. Then things took a turn for the worse, on Boxing day I go the call that my little grandmother was doing poorly. Minutes later I had booked a flight to Vancouver the next morning, followed by a flight on to Auckland. So as not to keep everyone hanging, because I know you all care about my little 89 year old grandmother as much as I do, after two pacemakers she is doing much better and probably has another year or two in her. Thanks for asking.

Spending most of my time in Napier, New Zealand on the East Coast of the North Island, I was keen to find a challenge that would only take me away for a day at a time because I was not really there to climb. I decided on two of the highest volcanoes with a plan to do both in the same day. I love it when a plan comes together, shame this one didn’t.

Doing the morning chores

Like all good Kiwi adventures, you can’t start anything till you have done the morning chores. Getting up in the dark, it was off to the cow shed to milk the cows, then hit the road. The roads in NZ are some of the best in the world (if single lane twisty roads are your thing) and best traveled by motorcycle if you want to get anywhere quick and I did. I had to cover 12 hours of driving in the next 24 hour period as well as climb to two summits (both recommend 8-10 hours return and these mountains are 3 hours apart). So leaping on a borrowed Harley I was off with the roar of a V Twin engine.

Mt Taranaki is around 2500m (8,500 ft) and rises steeply from sea level. Mt Ruapehu my second target is just over 9,000ft but has a much shorter approach and starts at around 3,300 ft making it an easier climb. The weather forecast was calling for rain and 90 kph winds easing through the day; not the most ideal weather for climbing. Mt Taranaki is known as a mountain that kills many with its rapidly changing weather but you take what you can get in NZ.

Taranaki, showing its face

I started up Mt. Taranaki in misty rain with a head wind that blew it sideways. Walking up the approach track was like walking uphill pulling a big weight behind. Rising above the treeline I was constantly being blown from one side of the track to the other as the gusts increased. After the first hour, the rain eased and the sun showed its face but the wind continued to build. I considered turning around but the forecast said it would lighten up so I kept plodding on. Like most volcanoes in NZ the slopes above the treeline are made up of a horrible kitty litter-like gravel and sand mix, that means you have to take two steps up then slide back down one, this coupled with the wind was very tiring.

In an effort to keep weight to a minimum and the plan to climb fast I had opted not to bring the sunscreen (given the rain when leaving the parking lot and the fact that I am not too bright) however the NZ sun is much more savage than what we get here in North America and with the sun now beating down I was getting burnt to a crisp.

Look out for the sun.

The wind continued to build, and I continued up the steepening kitty litter while starting to resemble a Buddhist monk in Tibet on a pilgrimage. I would take a couple of steps then have to lie down and wait for the gust of wind to pass, then get up and run a few more steps up before repeating the process, all the while being pelted with small rocks and sand that were being blown off the ridge above. After two hours of this punishment I made it to the summit ridge only to have the adventure-dial turned up.

The ridge was an easy scramble with just a few exposed sections and on a fine day it would have been a breeze. Today I was holding on for dear life. On three occasions I had gusts of wind that caught me off guard and while I had a firm grip with my hands I found my legs were being blown out from under me. Again I thought of turning back but it did not look like I had far to go now. Why is it that the summit ridge always looks so much shorter than it really is? The final 100m was covered in verglas just to add a little insult to injury then a short snow (ice) patch to stand (crouch) on the summit for a quick picture before heading back down.

Not a bad view!

Crossing the snow on the way down required a dive down in the self arrest position for each gust of wind, while the kitty litter was like downhill skiing with a jet pack on your back. I flew back down to the top of the approach track and finally met some people who were heading up, though most were turning around and heading back down. I borrowed some much needed sunscreen to help stop the burn then continued to the parking lot with a round trip time of less than six hours. I was doing great for time but my body was ruined.

There was no way I would have the energy to climb Ruapehu today. The wind had been like kryptonite to Superman, the noise alone had left me with a raging headache. So I headed for home with a quick stop at the pub for a beer because I was fairly parched.  Next time weather permitting I will go back and try to do both summits again. New Zealand is a great place to climb with many easily accessible objectives but never underestimate the weather. A nice day can change rapidly, so always be prepared.

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Blueberries on the way to Upper Anderson Tarn

The North Cascade traverse from Mount Watson to Blum appeared perfect for this sort of outing. With my kayak, bike and hiking gear crammed into my car and my last few dollars into its gas tank, I headed into the mountains.

My little brother, Jessy, joined me and we let gear at the end of Baker Lake Road and Baker Lake before arriving at our final destination, the Watson Lake Trailhead. Josh and Christy joined us for the day. Except for the bike ride back up to Watson, Jessy would keep me company for the next 9 days.

Day One and Two: Watson Trailhead to Diobsud Lakes

Mt. Baker from our camp below Watson's summit.

A nice trail for the first 2 miles was the last we’d see for a week. We explored the area heading to Upper Anderson Lakes and the lower slopes of Mount Watson. The way forward captivated us. Since we couldn’t imagine leaving the high country for Diobsud Lakes, we soon found camp. That night we watched as bright stars tumbled out from behind dark mountains.

Morning sun and clouds rose long before we did. With curious glances ahead, our eyes met sloping heather fields nestled below cliffs and sights of Diobsud Lakes.

We dropped into a huge meadow of Fireweed, Daisy’s, Salmon Berries and Cow Parsnip’s. After a rest, we proceeded up the wrong side of a waterfall toward a ramp on the south side of Bacon Peak. For several hours we struggled through grizzled, arthritic hunks of trees more dead than alive and masqueraded ourselves as tree huggers between cliffs before submitting defeat. Scratched and bruised we arrived below the waterfall once more.

After camp was set, Jessy and I left split up to find a way up Bacon Peak. Just before dark Jessy burst out from the brush. He had found a way. Two smiles were shared before it began to rain. The tap, tap on the tent at bedtime left me ill-at-ease. As good luck eventually follows bad, I dreamt of blue skies.

Day Three and Four: Diobsud Lakes, Bacon and Green lakes to Nert Lake

Coming down Bacon Peak

My dreams weren’t ignored. Under blue skies, over huge logs and small cliffs, beyond steep, slick heather, up further we climbed to the top of Bacon. At the summit, views of the Pickets and all the mountains between hoisted our desire to see what was around the next corner. We wound our way through a few glaciers and ridges before finally descending hard ice to smooth rock slabs.

First sights of Bacon Laken set above Green Lake kept us moving fast. We ran down the last rock fields to the outlet falls of the lake. Fording the falls was easy enough, although more water would be challenging.

Camp was set as light eased into a peaceful slumber. Under the moon’s scope, the waterfall and lake were inebriated, moving in slow motion like the stars.

The next morning rain came again. The cerulean outlines of Green Lake pleaded with us to come explore and to our dismay, we packed camp and set off. We went along the lake shore thinking it would be easier than the ridge. Easy ground morphed into a waterfall, the climbing of which was fast becoming a forte of ours, and traversed mid-falls on a ledge to enter slide alder.

Green Lake with lumbering clouds overhead.

We climbed steep then gentle slopes to Nert Lake. Our progress was subverted by never ending fields of the biggest blueberries I’ve ever seen. Blue fingers and faces brought us to camp.

Day Five through Seven: Nert Lake, Berdeen and Blum Lakes to Baker River

The way to Berdeen Lake either goes high or low. We went low entering a beautiful valley just as a black bear crossed boulders in the midst of a waterfall.

From the meadow we climbed up a steep gully to Berdeen Lake. With our exploring done, we we struck camp with time to relax. For Jessy this meant a swim to an island and fishing. For me, a nap and photos.

In the morning, we regretted having to leave. We traversed rock and then glacier up to a narrow pass between Skitzo and Hagan Peaks. A quick jaunt to Hagan was much enjoyed. Nearly all that we had crossed in the days previous could be sighted.

A heck of a place to take a nap. Berdeen Lake

Steep boulder fields were carefully crossed on our downward hike to Blum Lakes. We made camp in a grassy field and spent the remaining hours watching the fire and smoke from blazes to the Northeast.

I’ve been up and down from Mount Blum twice and the experience was less than enticing. Over 5000-ft of forest and bushes split by cliffs. The descent can reward excessive amounts of suck. It’s best to stay on the ridge. If you descend off of it, you become blocked by steep ravines full of slide alder and rocks. Jessy and I spent 7 hours descending less than 2 miles.

More steep forest led to vague boot paths. Bashing our way through the last remaining Devil’s Club, we arrived at Baker River. Feeling like warriors, we marched to the car, eyes sparkling in the late day’s sun with satisfaction over completing what we had set out to do.

Day Eight and Nine: Baker River, Baker Lake to Watson Road and Trailhead

Chilled waters high from the mountains all meet in Baker Lake. Once a natural lake, the river was dammed twice in 1925 and 1959 to create Lake Shannon and Baker. As promised, my twin brother Josh joined us. Cramming our gear into boats and dry packs was a challenge as we were sparing no comforts.

Though the river isn’t long, there were plenty of massive trees to slow us down. Over and under we went until we arrived at the lake. Far above Shuksan and Baker’s glaciers shined in the sun.

Jessy and Josh kayaking past a massive tarn. Mt. Baker in the distance.

Halfway to camp we stopped for several seal launches. Jessy and Josh couldn’t get enough and found another spot a few more miles down the shore.

The last few hours to Maple Grove Camp were spent battling the wind of whose presence I’d earlier said, “At least we don’t have a headwind.” Now that we did, the brothers could only blame me. We were relieved to pull our boats onto the shore.

The last day was both sad and happy for me. With so much adventure this year, it was hard to see this one come to pass and be finished. What else was there? No more big trips were planned. This was it. Parting ways, Jessy and Josh jumped in their car and I was on my own now, at least no human companions. The mosquitoes were ruthless as I climbed into the bushes to retrieve my bike.

Around 3700-ft of vertical gain was ahead of me and 10 miles of road. Far below me the blue waters of Baker Lake appeared small.

At the car, heart pounding, I sat not wanting to leave. Could I do it again? Could I throw my pack on and put foot to trail, paddle to lake, and cleat to peddle? Would it be the same? You only live through these days once and they are gone. As my mind raced over every moment I knew I’d certainly smelled the roses along the way. I’d gone full circle and isn’t it the best of journey’s that bring you back to their beginning?

Read more stories by Jason on Cascade Crusades and check out more of his incredible photos at Alpine State of Mind.

Always keep a herded-species checklist

My headlights revealed quite a sight that evening. The beaver, pounding down the road as fast as his little webbed feet could hop, while Nancy herded along few steps behind, moving him along to the sound of thump…slap…thump….slap…thump…..slap. With every vault, that beaver slapped his tail down onto the tarmac, the sound echoing over the quiet New Brunswick countryside, giving fair warning to all other beavers to stay off the road.

The next morning over breakfast, cousins Kent and Ronald found out about the herded beaver incident and I am afraid, were rather indiscreet. Within a day or so, Nancy’s reputation throughout New Denmark became that of a Beaver Herder extraordinaire. She became THE person to talk to if one had a wayward beaver that needed herding somewhere. She obviously was not comfortable with this bestowed notoriety however, turning down all of those herding jobs offered during the remainder of our vacation.

Now for ‘the rest of the story’,  from a message sent earlier to cousin Kent, discussing Nancy’s therapeutic successes in her never ending battle against the urge to herd.

SHHHHH.... I tawt I herd a wabbit

How the heck are you? I thought I would write to tell you about our recent trip to Algonquin.

You will be glad to know that Nancy’s rehab on resisting her instinct to herd beaver has proven quite successful. On our drive in, we saw a beaver eating weeds at the side of the road. Being considerate, I pulled up right beside it, getting close so Nancy wasn’t winded by running to start the stampede. Although her hand did quiver on the door handle, much to my surprise, she resisted the urge to jump out of the car hollering, ‘Giddy-up Bucky’. She was very pleased with her self-restraint and I certainly had to admit that the therapy worked quite well. Later on however, we discovered a therapeutic gap that led me to wonder if the Program may consider expanding a bit to include the herding of all God’s roadside creatures, rather than just beaver.

This became apparent when we spotted the turtle.

That carapacian was visible from a hundred meters, basking, soaking up the warmth of the dirt road, enjoying the day. We pulled along side and Nancy asked to stop. I thought she wanted to have a peek at it  from the car window.  When I look back on the incident, I am sure she didn’t give any outward signs of what was to happen next. She looked out her window, muttered something about logging trucks barreling through here, and was out that door before you could say, “mmmm, I Love Turtles”.

When her feet hit the ground, her arms automatically bloomed out like the wings of a trumpeting swan, her hands gracefully waving through the air. Emitting a sound similar to leaking air brakes, she shushed at the turtle, turning it back in a mad-long, turtle sprint towards the swamp. At one point he slowed and resisted, (I suspect he was reluctant to go back to whence he came) but with a few stomps, active hand swoops and lots of determined shushing, Nancy deftly herded him from the warm terra firma and back into the brackish water of the cold swamp. She returned to the car, red faced and sore cheeked, but there was a smile on her face. I fear now that she has found a substitute for beavers that are more abundant, closer to home and will soon develop into a Hard Core Turtle Herder. Only time will tell.

Dumbo with afternoon snack

We stored our garbage at night by wrapping the plastic bag inside a waterproof bag. The first night, when Dumbo found it, he made breaking into it his obsession. The next night was the same, however when we shot a beam onto the bag, it would move but we couldn’t catch Dumbo in the light. When Nancy approached the bag, it would immediately stop moving with no sign of a rat sized deer mouse thundering his retreat along the log wall of the cabin.

Keeping bear cubs warm

So there it is, the full unvarnished truth from an impartial eye-witness to the events.