FEATURED POST
The Dark Beauty Of The Black: Stratosfear
Loading ...In 1859, an expedition floated through a canyon with German cartographer Friedrich von Egloffstein on board. He drew gothic landscapes of unknown “soaring rock faces, the frothing river, the play of light on the narrow spaced walls,” labeling them the “Big Cañon” of the Grand River. Later historians misfiled these images as depictions of the [...]
Classic Climbs: Chapel Slab
Loading ...I stepped onto a narrow shelf, perhaps an inch wide, and inspected the rock above for minuscule undulations and cracks—anything for a toehold or finger crimp
Training for 5.12
Loading ...Last week I took a vacation to travel around the Toronto, Ontario area on a business trip with Matt. I’m the tourist and he’s the businessman. We had some really fun drives, awesome gym sessions and a lot of time to think about rock climbing. All of this thinking has allowed me to start to [...]
New Routes: Tooth and Nail on Sandstone
Loading ...I yelled for Hayden to tie the drill onto my haul line and slowly began pulling it up using one hand and my teeth.
Bivies, Bacon and Alpine Bliss
Loading ...Putting up first ascents in BC and Washington’s Cascades requires strength, skill, tenacity, great partners, and hearty breakfasts of bacon and mushrooms (aka vehicles for bacon grease delivery). New routes, old classics; get psyched for the season.
Old Farts
Loading ...This old guy peers over Charlotte’s shoulder. We’re in Indian Creek, she’s in her Vanagon, and I’m looking for partners. The Creek is full of them.
I’d bumped into Charlotte that morning. “It’s Ace’s birthday tonight,” she’d said. “Everyone’s here.” Now she’s leaning out of her bus, giving me directions to the party, the old guy [...]
FA of “Fat Kid,” V12, in Vermont
Loading ...Often the case with boulders in Vermont. the “Eighth Grade Boulder” was found through a mix of hard work and chance. With a bit of that work, lines began to appear climbable.
Van Life: Bishop
Loading ...Wow, it’s been almost 8 months already and life in the van is soon coming to an end. We’ve been to Rumney, The Red, Rocktown, Little Rock City, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Hueco, Vegas, Bishop and Joe’s Valley. Words cannot express how fortunate we feel after having this incredible experience. We have met so many amazing [...]
Classic Climbs: Otto’s Route
Loading ...The route
A faded photo, taken with a disposal camera from a CrackerJack box, is all that remains from my many climbs of Otto’s Route on Independence Monument in Colorado National Monument, CO.
The four-pitch 5.9, though not the most aesthetically pleasing route, is by far the easiest way to the top of the Monument. The easy [...]
Classic Climbs: Castleton Tower and the Rectory
Loading ...Why settle for just one classic when there are two right next to each other? It’s no mystery why Castleton Tower is considered one of the classic desert climbs of the American Southwest. Mountain Project’s introduction says “Castleton Tower is probably the most famous desert tower in the world”. Well, there you have it.
The Rectory, [...]
