Outdoor Research Verticulture » Sarah Hueniken http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com Get Stoked! Outdoor Research Verticulture Sat, 04 Feb 2012 05:31:57 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 Women’s Alpine “Next Step” Camps http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2011/03/women%e2%80%99s-alpine-next-step-camps/ http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2011/03/women%e2%80%99s-alpine-next-step-camps/#comments Tue, 01 Mar 2011 16:45:17 +0000 Sarah Hueniken http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/?p=6013 As we grouped up in the Wilcox Campground parking area along the Icefields Parkway, the rain started to come down, first lightly, then a full socked-in cloud of gloom. This was our day 1 of 5 days of the Women’s Next Step Alpine Camp sponsored by Outdoor Research, and this was not the ideal way to start! Six incredible, motivated, excited, strong and anticipatory women were ready to get started on the adventures as Kir and I wondered how to best deal with the weather. The good thing about alpine climbing is at least you aren’t visualizing yourself in a tank top and shorts, so the well-prepared crew spent the day hiking to the toe of the glacier and reviewed necessary skills for the next day’s anticipated ascent of Athabasca via two technical routes. We covered ice anchors, efficient alpine ice techniques and rope management, followed by a close look at the map and our two routes and created a thorough climbing route and timeplan for the next day.




Our 1am wake up came far too soon. Soon we were ascending the talus and old moraine to the toe of the glacier in the dark. Still by headlamp we traversed the glacier where our two teams split to climb the North Face bypass and the Silverhorn on Athabasca. The main goal for Kir and me on these camps is to teach the participants the skills necessary to accomplish these peaks on their own, while still getting something done (in other words climb something instead of dry land training)! Sometimes we get slightly ambitious with this combination, but I think that is what keeps our participants coming back year after year. They love and embrace the challenge. I started to pitch out the Silverhorn with Claire, followed by Mary Ann and Deb as a rope team leading themselves. After about 9 full rope length pitches we reached the top of the Silverhorn to see 4 small figures along the skyline reaching Athabasca’s true summit via the North face Bypass. We continued up to them and shared high fives on a gorgeous blue bird cool day in July. Our team of 8 had summitted one of the Canadian Rockies classic 11’000ers.
We descended the standard AA col route and enjoyed some much deserved camp time with beers and good food. Sleep came easily that night!

The following day, people were pretty tired from the huge 13 hour push the day before. We opted to go cragging at a fabulous little secret quartzite crag and work on leading and multipitching rock skills. Everyone enjoyed the warm sun and rock, pushing themselves on lead, and learning more rope skills. A perfect “alpine rest day”!!

With two days left in the camp we wanted to try accomplishing another 11’000er, however there are not too many of these quiet monsters that are within a days reach. Despite a rather bleak forecast we decided to aim for Wooley and Diadem. We packed our bags and headed into the mountains to bivy at the base of these beautiful peaks and set ourselves up for an early start the following day. Part of this approach involved crossing the mighty Sunwapta river. Luckily it is quite braided in the area we crossed, but still presented a chilling experience! The rain didn’t get any spirits down however….must have been the awesome Helium Jackets and Radar Caps that OR gave us!

Despite a very wet evening, we ventured out of our tents at 3 am, and headed for Diadem. Luckily travel on Diadem was quite good and we found our way through the snow couloirs and rock steps and landed on the glacier just in time to get completely whited out. One step in front of the other slowly led us to the summit….which we really only recognized by not going up any more! On our way down though, we had a different story. The freezing cold temps of being in the clouds quickly turned into full on heat as we dropped. This descent offered us the most learning that any part of the trip could. A south facing route, 11am, clouds dissipating….things start to fall down and we could hear the evidence of that around us. After a vigilant and efficient descent we reflected back at some of the hazards that we encounter while alpine climbing and the educated decisions we make to minimize them. Judgment is a hard thing to learn from reading books. It can also be a dangerous thing to learn completely on your own. Experience in the element, in varying conditions, on varying terrain and then reflecting on it afterward is truly how judgment is built. This was a great judgment-building day!

Thrilled to have summitted and be safely back at camp we packed up our bags and made the journey back to the valley floor. Another successful camp was celebrated back in Lake Louise over dinner and beers! Looking around at the table of tired but smiling faces, I felt so lucky to once again be part of this group. Every year Kir and I run Women’s Alpine Camps for different ability levels and we are always so impressed with the level of energy, positivity and determination that fills the week. We recognize that spending a week pushing oneself physically and mentally in the mountains is not always high on one’s “vacation to-do list”! The reward however in terms of personal satisfaction, confidence building and friendship can not be matched by a week on the beach, and we thank Outdoor Research so much for recognizing that and encouraging these courses through incredible incentives!

Interested in one of Sarah’s programs? Find out more on her website and stay tuned for next summers alpine and rock camps in her newsletter.

]]> http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2011/03/women%e2%80%99s-alpine-next-step-camps/feed/ 0 Ice Climbing in the Ghost http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2010/04/ice-climbing-in-the-ghost/ http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2010/04/ice-climbing-in-the-ghost/#comments Fri, 23 Apr 2010 22:04:51 +0000 Sarah Hueniken http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/?p=3122 It was dark out, my headlamp needed a battery change, and my coffee hadn’t quite yet kicked in.  By 5am we were hiking over frozen creeks, bush crashing through trees, and shedding layers faster then leaves falling off aspens on a windy autumn day.

Kate, Cheryl and I were on a mission….we came to slay the Sorcerer.  After an hour and a half of hiking, the headlamps had been turned off, the chatter was down to a minimum and Kate was almost down to a sports bra.  I anticipated the turn of the next corner of our hike as I knew it would shed the greatly anticipated first view of our classic 210m grade V climb. There was a gulp, a gasp and then some nervous and giddy “wows” and “oh my god”s…..THIS is what I love about my job!




This year OR helped out with the Advanced Women’s Ghost Ice Climbing trip in the Canadian Rockies by supplying every woman with a new black Solitude jacket and windstopper hat.  WOW!!  It was an incredible contribution to an incredible group of high spirited and motivated women.  I hope these jackets know what kind of use and abuse they are in for!

The trip’s goal was to allow the women to push their own climbing either through following harder climbs or by leading the pitches they wanted to with direct coaching and feedback.  A day of cragging ice and mixed, near Canmore had some participants looking like they had just finished a mountain biking race…spring arrived earlier then usual!
The next morning we loaded up our 4-by-4′s and headed into Ghost territory.  Some exciting river crossings tested our little Rav4 but shortened our hike to the Valley of the Birds where a bunch of short pitches led us into a maze of tight water-worn canyons and culminated in some cool 2-pitch, grade 4 climbs.  Almost everyone had a chance to lead that day and for some it was even their first ice leads ever!  Yah, Piper!

That night we created a mini village of six tents, one walltent, and one serious fire pit.  After some good eating, the next day’s plans were set into motion and tired bodies crawled into tents early anticipating a predawn start the next day.  Fist and Fang, Beowulf and the Sorcerer were all climbed and happy faces and tired arms returned to camp that afternoon for a dinner feast and a roaring fire thanks to chainsaw and ice climbing guru Sharon Wood.

Our last morning, two teams climbed Wicked Wanda, and one very courageous 4wd team blasted up Hidden Dragon, backed off of a detached Candle Stick maker and sillied their way up the Joker.  Sadly that afternoon the mini village had to be repacked and we said farewell to the Ghost Valley…until next year!

I love ice climbing.  I love the Ghost. I love sharing ice climbing with others.  This camp was a bit of a dream come true for me, as I had the opportunity to share one of my favorite places with a crew of motivated, excited, and highly talented women.

This summer OR will be contributing yet again to our rock and alpine programs.  Another great opportunity for keen mountain women to take charge of their learning and embrace the sharp end of their climbing careers….or just have a blast with a bunch of other mountain lovers! For more questions about these courses, please email Sarah at shueniken@yahoo.ca.  Thanks again OR for your support in these exciting mountain opportunities for women!

]]> http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2010/04/ice-climbing-in-the-ghost/feed/ 0 The Intrigue of Yam http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2010/02/the-intrigue-of-yam/ http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2010/02/the-intrigue-of-yam/#comments Thu, 18 Feb 2010 17:03:02 +0000 Sarah Hueniken http://outdoorresearchverticulture.com/?p=1888 var jsSlideshow = new Array(); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/west-end-of-yam.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/projecting1.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/pitch-3-sarah.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/lilla-rappelling.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/lilla-following-the-crux-pitch.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/lilla-focusing-on-the-moves.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/crux-pitch.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/another-fall-on-yam.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/projecting.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Lilla-leading-out-on-Pitch-2.jpg"); jsSlideshow.push("http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Yam-exposure.jpg");


Yamnuska exposure

Yamnuska exposure

For many locals of the Bow Valley, “Yamaneering”, is a loose term used to define a climbing day on Mt. Yamnuska, in which a party attempts a route, that although graded well within their abilities, and was probably put up 20 years ago in hobnail boots…will still make them feel like they are moving on uncharted, untouched and unclimbable territory.

Last summer my good friend and guiding cohort, Lilla Molnar and I booked a day together on Yamnuska, home to hundreds of incredible lines! Some are easy and well protected, others are very challenging and heady, limestone multipitch climbs. Either way, Yam offers a memorable day for climbers of all abilities. Both Lilla and I, as locals and as climbing guides for the area had climbed numerous routes on Yam before and ‘thought’ we knew what we were getting ourselves into as we set off on the 1 hour, uphill, hike to the base of Greyscale; a relatively new line by Andy Genereux. I love to hate the hike up to Yam! It makes for a great warm up to the day but also reminds you how incredibly unfit you are! Running into Laurie Skreslet (first Canadian to climb Everest) along the trail reminded us of the history and intrigue Yam offers. It is a test piece of the Canadian Rockies and a place to return to time and time again; even to repeat routes.

Climbing Greyscale that day was incredible….we had rain, we had sun, we had wind, we had thunderheads – a typical June day in the Rockies. As we ascended the first 5 pitches we arrived at the crux of the route. As I somewhat arrogantly scampered through the easy terrain on the initial start of the 11d pitch, Andy himself rapped a nearby route. “Thanks for the great route!” I yelled over, confidently; as Andy smiled and put me back into my well-deserved place saying only “that the fun was still to come”.

Lilla leading out on Pitch 2

Lilla leading out on Pitch 2

Sure enough, as he gazed from his lower belay station, I huffed and puffed and pumped my arms to oblivion through the overhanging moves near the end of the pitch. Scared well to the point of trying to wring out water from this ancient ocean bed that I was clinging to, I slapped for what I hoped would be the mother of all jugs only to find a grizzly limestone sloper going for the final exit moves. There was a moment of pause in my brain, and in my body, and finally acceptance to the inevitable as I felt myself no longer in control of my situation or my destiny.

Taking the plunge a couple hundred feet off the deck into space, I realized how seldom I fall on Yam…for good reason…as most falls here could be your last nightmare. Thanks to Andy’s generous bolting however I merely fell into space with forearms the size of Popeye’s and a good case of adrenaline. My trusty belayer caught my petrified and wailing body easily. I continued to the end of the pitch, bummed to have blown the “onsight” but strangely proud of myself for having tried hard enough to take the whipper. Lilla followed and then persevered on the final 20 meter lead to the top. Of course, this non-crux pitch also provided much entertainment as every pitch on Yam tends to do. Thoughtful climbing on razor sharp holds, sketchy foot smears and ample space between bolts to give you time to think about how much skin will be lost if one of those smears decides to grease off. Committing moves that, once made, can not be undone and can only be followed by more hopeful upward momentum. When we reached the summit we were each adequately shaken, pumped, bloody and exhilarated. This was a perfect day on Yam.

Projecting!

Projecting!

Only a few days later, I returned to Yamnuska with Shelley Nairn, mother and climber/friend extraordinaire. We thought we would do a fun day and chose a route that we didn’t think would “tax” us too much. It also was positioned conveniently near a route that we were keen to try and “project” when we were stronger and allowed us some scouting opportunities. After a couple pitches of run out climbing, unexpected holds breaking, seemingly directionless route finding on rock that was described appropriately in the topo as “kitty litter crumble”, we made use of our tagline and, tails between our legs, rapped the pitches we so shakily and terrifyingly led. Maybe this day was not a perfect one on Yam. It was however a more typical one, as one never really knows the outcome of their well planned Yamaneering day, and THAT is what makes it such an adventure.

Back safely on terra firma I reflected on what keeps us coming back to this mass of eroding limestone. When gearing up for a Yamnuska day, it is appropriate to come prepared for anything; good rock, bad rock, good weather, bad weather, run out, well protected, fun, or scary. Any way you look at it though, so long as you come with a good buddy, it is always an adventure and one that keeps you coming back for more!

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