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K7: Expedition Pakistan 2010

By Matt McCormick

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Expeditions are massively long in the making. Researching, planning, training, and finally… packing. When the day comes to step on the plane it can be hard to believe that its actually happening.

On July 6, Tim DeRoehn and I leave for the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan to explore the amazing alpine granite potential and connect with some of the schools of the Central Asia Institute. This trip is made possible in large part to a Copp-Dash Inspire award which we were given through the American Alpine Club.

Tim and I have climbed together for the past dozen years everywhere from the White Mountains of New Hampshire to the Bugaboos of British Columbia. We’re hoping to bring the skills we’ve developed on this variety of terrain to the biggest mountains of our lives. The Southwest Pillar of K7 West is our main objective. Three lines have been climbed to or near the top of the granite wall yet the 1,500m spire of granite remains unclimbed in its entirety. Rising to 6,200m, it requires high end rock climbing and mixed climbing skills.

Proposed Line on K7 West Pillar

We’ll climb in a fast and lightweight style carrying the minimum of gear necessary. This is the style that Jonny Copp and Micah Dash brought to the mountains and we’ll try to carry on that style to the best of our abilities. Our objective will require carrying the heavy weight of ice climbing gear needed for the upper part of the peak through challenging rock terrain below. This will add to the challenge of an already challenging peak.

In addition to our climbing objectives we are bringing two enormous duffels filled with school supplies to deliver to the schools of the Hushe village at the foothills of the Karakorum mountains. These schools are part of the Central Asia Institute which is run by Greg Mortenson, author of Three Cups of Tea. We are inspired by Greg’s work to improve the educational possibilities for these children and we’re excited to contribute what we can to that process.

We are psyched and ready to go!

We’ll be sending live dispatches from Pakistan! Follow along here on VertiCulture

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