FEATURED POST

May 18th

I have been back in Base Camp for four days resting. The weather forecast changed for the worse for the eighteenth and nineteenth weather window. The next window begins May 22 and runs through the 25th. I am biding my time getting logistics together for the speed ascent. Jamie with Hanes Brand is letting me use their tent at Camp 3. I am hiring a Sherpa to melt water for me at Camp 3. In addition, the Patagonia Brothers have a backup Sherpa at Camp 4 that can melt some water for me at the South Col.

I now intend to leave at 4:30 pm on the 22nd and head for the summit. The weather has warmed up enough that I can wear Javalin shoes from Base Camp to Camp 2 and then carry the Batura boots to the base of the Lhotse Face. At the Lhotse Face I will leave one ski pole and change shoes. Then I will climb to Camp 3 and change into my down suit at about 10 pm. I will also put on my Olympus Mons boots and feet warmers. I will drink some water and refill my Nathan hydration pack. There are some bars and gels as well as my Alti Mitts and Julbo goggles. Then I will continue to Camp 4 refill my water and head toward the summit. I anticipating reaching the summit around 11 am if all goes according to plan.

I am currently working on my patience with the changing weather. Last night over fifty people made the summit. The night of the 22nd will be even busier. I plan to deal with the crowds on my summit day by making it to Camp 4 at 3 am. Most people will leave for the summit around 10 pm on the 22nd. If I am five hours behind the crowds I hope that the bottlenecks will be resolved by the time I reach the Hillary Step. I should only have to contend with clients, Sherpas and guides descending from the summit.

Today I am carrying Batura boots and BD crampons to Camp 2. I am going to do a simulation of the time of day and equipment I want to use on the 22nd. I will carry a BD speed 40 pack with boots, water, crampons and OR jacket up to Camp 2. Then I will return to Base Camp around 10 pm. I will have three plus days to recover. Everything seems to be in place that I can arrange.

We’re sending the best to Chad in the next week as he makes his summit bid. All our good energy is headed your way, man, for a strong, safe ascent/descent!

You can get the most updated dispatches from his expedition by subscribing to VertiCulture RSS feeds. You can also find more information about Chad and this expedition on his site, www.chadkellogg.com