FEATURED POST

Dispatch received 16 Apr, 10

Looking to Lhotse face

April 14th. Today is a rest day after carrying a heavy load to Camp 1. Yesterday I got a late start at 10:45 am. There was no wind in the icefall and the heat got the dehydration going early. I anticipated Camp 1 being much closer; however with a 40lb load it took me nearly 5 hours to reach camp. I dug a hole for my depot and emptied my equipment quickly as the wind was blowing and the sun had disappeared.

I made my way as quickly as possible through the crevasse field and down the double ladder into the Khumbu icefall again. It was late afternoon and the snow had firmed up so my crampons did not ball up. The descent across the ladders and gaping holes was better the second time. The weather was changing and it felt like snow was on the way. Nightfall was also nearing. I promised the cook I would be back by 6 pm for dinner.

I rolled into camp at 5:45 pm with a dehydration headache. The dinner was amazing and enormous. I could not begin to consume it all, but I tried. Feeling tired I laid down to rest early. Almost immediately the snowflakes began to fall and the thunder and lightning ensued. It was quite the light show with thunder within a 5 second count for nearly two hours. About two inches of snow fell in the next couple of hours. It was relaxing and I fell asleep looking forward to a shower and some rest the following day.

Self portrait at Camp 2

April 15th. Today I woke up very early – 3 am – and prepared for a carry to Camp 2. I was on the trail by 4 am hiking in the pre-sun temps. I made good time with the Sherpa’s carrying loads as well. Again this morning I was carrying a 45 lb load. By 7:30 am I had made it to Camp 1, I was surprised at how much better I felt on the second trip to 19,500 ft. (6,000 M). A train of five Sherpa’s passed me up, at Camp 1 they all removed their crampons and harnesses. Following suit I left mine at Camp 1 as well. About ¾ of a mile up glacier there was a large 25 ft. crevasse that I was not psyched about crossing without my harness. On the other side I was glad that the next time my pack would be lighter!

I made it up to Camp 2 at 21,000 ft in five and a half hours. I found a tent site to cache my gear in a water resistant duffel bag that I carried up. Presuming the gear was safe I took a thirty minute lunch break and changed into lighter clothing for the way down. The sun had been on Camp 2 for about an hour. I met a Sherpa carrying a load up and he was telling me all of the 8,000 meter peaks he had climbed without oxygen. It was inspiring for me to hear in the Western Cwm with all of the massive peaks rising above us.

The sun was scorching as I headed into Camp 1. As I put on my harness I saw Willie and Damian Benegas and crew eating lunch. They encouraged me to put my cache in their vestibule for safe keeping. We all headed down through the Khumbu Icefall in the ever increasing temps at 11 am. I was very glad for the early start today.

On the descent I ran into Jamie and Scott with the Hanes expedition. They were moving to Camp 1 for 2 nights. They informed me that there had been a major collapse in the icefall and they had been waiting for an hour and a half for the ice doctors to find and secure a new route. I planned to meet them for a cup of Tang in two days on my next carry to Camp 2. There was no need for further motivation to get down as quickly as possible.

I met up with one of the Argentinians named Alver and together we made quick work of the icefall. Alver mentioned that “there is no mercy from the heat”. It was ironic that we would be sweltering crossing a mass of glacial ice. We rolled back into base camp at 1 pm and were welcomed with cool drinks and French fries. I took a nap in the warm sun to regain some sleep that I did not get the previous night. It feels good to have most of my equipment for the climb above the icefall. One more carry to Camp 2 and I will be set up to stay and acclimatize. I am feeling healthy and have a positive attitude.

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